Homeland 2024: Muro Lucano Revisited

In 2018 a passion for exploring my family roots took me and my wife Meg to Muro Lucano, Italy, homeland of Felix Cipollo (Born Felice Cipolla). The experience was so rewarding that when my sister Monica expressed an interest in visiting, my wife Meg and I were completely onboard. This time we would add a few new twists, including our first visit to Marsico Nuovo, the homeland of Domenica "Minni" Cipollo (Born D'Agrosa, but also knows as Lagrosa). For this post, I'll focus on Muro Lucano. Let the travelogue and history tour begin...

DAY 1: THE JOURNEY

This trip helped us see new options for experiencing Muro Lucano. Hopefully these details help you create your own adventure. 

Travel plans 

In 2018 we headed to Muro Lucano from Salerno after a few days on the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento. Salerno is the easiest place to start or end a trip to Muro Lucano, especially if you are going to rent a car for the adventure. It is a short and easy one hour drive. You can get to Salerno by train from Rome or Naples. There are also ferry and bus options on the Amalfi Coast which allow you to easily reach Salerno. Previously we took the ferry to Salerno from Capri. 

Our logistic were a bit different this time. After arriving in Naples from Philadelphia, we spent three nights in Sorrento with day trips to Capri and Positano. On Sunday, August 19, 2024 we headed out in our Volkswagen T-Cross to spend the day in Marsico Nuovo (2hrs + drive) before heading to Muro Lucano for two nights. The two towns are only an hour apart with an easy and scenic commute in between. Google Maps was our handy guide. 

I learned an important lesson last time...driving a stick shift car in Muro Lucano can be stressful (at least for me). So, this time I got an automatic. If you look at a map of the town and imagine all the twists represent climbing or descending the face of a mountain, you'll know why. The road into Muro Lucano isn't scary (you won't roll off the mountain) but it is tricky and you won't want to take two hands off the wheel to shift gears, especially if driving in the dark. 

Unlike last time, we approached Muro Lucano after the sun had set and so we were able to see the beauty of Muro Lucano lit up at night from a distance. It was magical to see the castle, homes and landmarks aglow in the dark rural landscape. 

If you are wondering if you can make this a "day trip" from the coast, the answer is, "yes." Of course you will likely see less than if you stay longer. Personally, I find it rewarding to spend one or two nights and soak up the history, peace and beauty of this charming town. Seeing it all hours of the day gives you different perspectives of the landscape and culture. Plus, it is nice to get away from crowds of tourists that flock to the major cities and the Amalfi coast.

Muro Lucano: Catching a glimpse of the magic ahead

A winding road in Muro Lucano took us to
 Nonna Felicia B&B (top)

Nonna Felicia B&B

We swapped our 2018 accommodations at Hotel della Colline (which we really enjoyed) for a new option, Nonna Felicia ("Grandma Felica B&B"), because it was easier to make a reservation (we used  Booking.com). This location is about as close as you can get to the addresses of our Cipollo family ancestors. The amenities were modern and the view from near the top of Muro Lucano was stunning. We could have stayed here for several days and relaxed. There is a small "mom and pop" shop around the corner where you can pick up a few things for dining in, but the place comes with snacks and we had plans to dine out two nights. 

We communicated with our host through the Booking.com app and What's App (easiest way to contact locals once in the country) to make arrangements for things like dinner reservations. We made heavy use of Google Translate on our phones when communicating with our Nonna Felicia B&B host in person. (Note: Download Italian in Google Translate in advance so it will work even if you don't have internet access on your phone). 

Nonna Felicia B&B: Stunning view at night

Nonna Felicia B&B: Modern accommodations

Nonna Felicia B&B: Table set for three 

Dinner at il Casereccio

I asked a few people I connected with during my first visit to Muro Lucano, plus our host from Nonna Felicia, for dining recommendations. Il Casereccio was a unanimous "Top 3" choice and their steaks came highly recommended. We booked for 8 PM (the earliest you can dine for dinner!) and it seemed like a safe bet. However, we had so much fun in Marsico Nuovo meeting our newly found D'Agrosa family relatives, that we were much delayed and shifted our reservation to 9:30 PM. That might be the latest dinner reservation I've made outside of New Year's Eve....at least since I was in my 20s. 

Unfortunately, we hadn't anticipated how much we would eat for lunch at Agriturismo Vignola in Marsico Nuovo so we still weren't really hungry even at 9:30. Monica stayed behind at Nonna Felicia as Meg and I took our trusty automatic Volkswagen back down the mountain to the valley that hosts il Casereccio. As my co-pilot, Meg, again coached me around each winding turn on the dark road. 

Muro Lucano's population is about 5K. I think half of them were at il Casereccio that night. Yes, I'm exaggerating...but it was buzzing with locals. The place is huge and it was hopping with people dining-in and getting pizza to go. I don't think they would have missed us if we didn't show, but we were happy to be there to take in the atmosphere and "people watch". The main dining room was full of local Muresi and very few (if any) tourists besides Meg and I. 

In Muro Lucano, English isn't widely spoken or found in print like it is in tourist-heavy towns, but we've always found a way to make it work because the people are so friendly, and because we cheat with technology. With the Google Translate app on our phones we were able to translate the menu into English. It almost seems like science fiction (Jetsons technology for people my age).  

We were so full from lunch we only ordered an Italian craft beer and authentic Italian pizza (we'll have to come back for the steak!). Meg tried to convince them to put chicken on the pizza but she was denied. I think she offended the chef (ha ha). We enjoyed our food and marveled at the dog sitting quietly under the table next to us and the well behaved children. We noticed none were being entertained by iPads and phones, something that seems increasingly rare in America. 

Full and tired, we took the winding road back to the heights of Muro Lucano with Meg calling out all the sharp turns ahead in the black of the night. 

Birra Morena: A welcome cold brew 

DAY 2: REDISCOVERY

Chiara Ponte (Fantastica guida turistica!)

In 2018 I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a "10 Places to Visit in Muro Lucano" blog post written by local historian, author and tour guide, Chiara Ponte. Her passion for the history of Muro Lucano and the care she took to connect our family history with the town was inspiring. I remember feeling like we were in an episode of, "Who do you think you are?".  She is fantastic. So, without hesitation I reached out to her for this trip and she agreed to be our guide once again.  If you are planning on making a trip to Muro, you need to be mindful that some things (even churches) might not be open to the public. Chiara can get the keys and she knows the history!

Russ, Chiara & Monica

Buongiorno!

With the threat of rain and the heat of August on our minds, we got an early start to our day. With some coffee and breakfast basics in the kitchen from Nonna Felicia B&B plus some fruit and goodies we carried with us from Marsico Nuovo, we welcomed the day from our patio overlooking Muro. By 9:30 AM we were meeting Chiara a short distance away in front of the Parco della Rimeberanza. For Meg and I, it was like reuniting with with an old friend. 

At one point Chiara relayed an interesting fact about the park. Recently, photographic evidence has surfaced as proof that the fascist dictator, Benito Mussolini, once visited the park. The story goes he was not welcomed and left. Thankfully he did not return. 

An amazing day awaited us, and not long after we got together with Chiara we were off again navigating the narrow walkways and tight streets of Muro Lucano. 

Breakfast on our patio

Room with a view

Excited to start the day

Parco della Rimeberanza 

Quiet streets 

One of the many interesting properties

Luigi Cipolla and the "merciful receiver"

Previous research uncovered the origin of the Cipollo family. On May 2, 1842 a newborn male was abandoned in Muro in the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (Italy was not a united until 1870). The abandoned child or "foundling" would be given the name "Luigi Cipolla".  In 1877 he would become the father of Felice Cipolla (Felix Cipollo).  The name "Luigi" was given to multiple abandoned children at that time and place, likely because Saint Luigi Gonzaga was held in especially high regard in Muro at that time. The assignment of the Cipolla surname, which means "onion" in Italian, was unique among the abandoned children. Maybe he was abandoned with an onion (as a gift to his future caregiver) or maybe he reminded someone of an onion. We'll never know....ugh! I'm still amazed to think how name choices made back in 1842 have reverberated with a line of decedents using the name "Louis Cipollo." 

On this trip we revisited the area where Luigi likely spent his early years battling poverty and attending church. In 2018 we couldn't identify where Lugi was abandoned and we didn't have much insight into who might have cared for him in his early days. Thankfully, Chiara did some research into this topic for our 2024 trip.

Previously, we knew of a practice in this region and timeframe where abandoned children would be placed on a "wheel" (la routa) located on the outside wall of a building known to host people who would care for abandoned newborns. One researcher estimated that as many as 1,200 "wheels" were in use across southern Italy in the mid-ninteeth century. By 1900 this practice was halted. Chiara concluded that the practice did exist in Muro at the time Luigi Cipolla was born and described it this way: 

"The wheel was a sort of round cabinet built into the wall of the hospital, or orphanage, or monastery. The baby was placed on it from outside, then the cabinet was turned and the baby was shifted into the building where a charitable receiver was there to collect it and give first care, while the person who abandoned the child would walk away unseen."

The practice of using the wheel and proof of its former location has disappeared, but Chiara formed a solid hypothesis about where it might have existed and who took care of Luigi is his first days (at least). Here is how she described it:

"Felicia Viggiano was the merciful receiver. She had the task given by the municipality to control the wheel located on Strada Fontana. She had to take care of the abandoned child in the first moment of his life and she had to go to the office of Civil Status of the town of Muro to declare the discovery and to register the birth of the child."

We can be certain Felicia Viggiano knew of the baby Luigi Cipolla. Her name is on the official birth records which also indicate that Luigi was abandoned. What care might Luigi Cipolla have received after his abandonment so that he might survive? Again, let's refer to Chira's research: 

"After abandonment children could be taken in by a charity institution or the luckiest, by a family. The charity institution in Muro Lucano could simply be a in a small building next to the wheel intended for reception, where devoted people or women could breast feed the foundlings volunteered. Perhaps the merciful receiver also took care of them. In the 19th century in Muro there was no real orphanage. Some orphans were raised by monks." Note that previously we thought an orphanage might have hosted Luigi, but that didn't exist during his era.    

As we explored Strada Fontana, where Felicia Viggiano, the "merciful receiver", first cared for Luigi Cipolla, it became clear this location posed some advantages for the stealth abandonment of a newborn. First, there are various blindspots which could have given some privacy to the person placing a child in the "wheel" while preserving their anonymity. There aren't many places like that in the area. 

In addition, this location is close to the small church of San Bernardino and a small "hospital" which gave "hospitality to the poor, sick, foreigners and abandoned children." The few rooms would have provided very modest accommodations. It was supported by the Confraternity of the Most Holy Sacrament. This lay person organization was supported by donations, bequests and earnings from land held by the organization. While the hospital is gone, the small church (the size of a chapel) still stands but is in very poor condition. Apparently there are plans to rehabilitate it. We'll have to come back to see it!

Chiesa San Bernardino

San Bernardino stands above us

Community water source and wash at Capomuro

The neighborhood of the "merciful receiver"

Hypothesis: Luigi Cipolla was abandoned here

Russ and Monica standing on the path of our ancestors

Possible passage to the "wheel" (la routa) for abandoned children

Climbing our way to the top

One thing about Muro you can't ignore are the many steps and streets required to climb and descend the magnificent landscape. With Chiara leading the way we decided to climb up the face of Muro towards the medieval castle before the full force of the August sun came into effect. The streets are charming and along the way there are markers and artwork that tell important stories. There are also signs of the devastating 1980 earthquake that leveled homes in the neighborhood we know Felice Cipolla and his family lived. Those homes (like many today) were carved into the mountain. Some of that real estate only serves as parking spots today. The earthquake did extensive damage to the entire town, but the people are resilient. 

Climbing Muro Lucano towards the castle

Cars parked where homes stood before 1980 earthquake.
The Cipolla's resided nearby above this point.

Panorama of Muro as we head towards the castle 

At the top, a medieval castle and scenic views castle await

When you reach the top and see the castle up close, you might be disappointed to know that it is a shell of its former self and that you cannot enter. The 1980 earthquake took its toll here too. But Chiara Ponte knows it's rich history and she tells the story of the structure and the notable people that were hosted here. This includes Queen Giovanna I of Naples who was murdered here in 1382. The castle is situated in a position to protect the oldest part of the Muro Lucano, the Pianello neighborhood. The landscape, including beautiful, but precarious steep ravines only visible from the top, offer natural protection. The Italian language Wikipedi page (your Google Chrome browser can translate it for you) has a lot share about the the castle's long history (~9th Century). 

Gateway to the castle. The drawbridge era is long gone!

The castle fortress embedded in the rock

Steep ravines guard Muro Lucano

Cathedral of Saint Nicola (Cattedrale San Nicola)

As we made our way around the castle, we re-discovered the Cathedral of San Nicola (12th Century!) which benefited from the protection of the castle. Technically this cathedral is a co-cathedral, a designation shared with Cattedral San Giorgio Martire in Marsico Nuovo, a cathedral we had visited only one day prior. Muro Lucano has a rich history in the Catholic church. The roots of the church in this location goes back many centuries. I provide some insights into that history in my 2018 blog post.  I welcomed a second chance to enter the cathedral and marvel at its fresco's and visit the beautiful chapels and get some "behind the scenes" views. I was reminded that this is the exact location that Luigi Cipolla, the "founding father" of the Cipollo family, was baptized on May 3, 1842. The baptismal fountain from that era still exists. 

If you are looking to visit the Cathedral (which I highly suggest), then you likely need to arrange access in advance. It isn't always open to the public, as some Italian tourists we encountered that day discovered. Like us, they were fortunate to benefit from Chiara Ponte's ability to get access to the keys!

Outside the cathedral we saw another structure that looks a lot like a church. The location is odd since it is stationed over a steep ravine. I understand this to be the Church of San Giueseppe which sits over the Cemetery of San Giuseppe. There were some interesting burial practices long ago that allowed bodies of the deceased to fall down the ravine from structures in this area..not your typical cemetery. 

Cattedrale San Nicola

Cattedrale San Nicola: Beautiful paintings and frescos

Church & Cemetery of San Giuseppi

Cattedrale San Nicola: San Gerardo Majella statue

Baptismal font of our ancestors

Ornate chair for the bishop

Behind the scenes: A room with a view

The Pianello 

We exited the cathedral and headed towards the Pianello district of Muro. As we walked past the old seminary and "bishop's place" my mind wandered to questions regarding whether any of my family might have spent time there. I left with the understanding that those who attended were more likely to come from wealthy families (my family were peasants!).  I had some regrets that our timing did not allow us to visit the nearby National Archeological Musuem of Muro Lucano and explore its treasures. Last time it wasn't ready for visitors and this time it was closed. We'll have to come back yet again!

We did make a stop at the home of San Gerardo Majella, known as the patron of mothers. He is celebrated around the world, but he was born in Muro Lucano (1726). There are murals to him in various parts of the town, including depictions of him climbing out the window of his house. With keys that look like they fit the period, we entered his home which is preserved to reflect the period in which he lived. I suspect the Cipolla's lived in a place that had many of the same qualities.  One thing missing? The animals that sometimes resided in the homes of families. 

The Pianello district is the oldest part of Muro and that is likely driven by the protection afforded by the natural geography of the landscape. It would be hard to assail this part Muro given the steep ravine on one side and then the fortress castle above it. You can't even see this part of of Muro from the neighborhood we were staying in. I'm fascinated by a photograph of this part of Muro taken in 1858 which I'll share below. It gives you an idea of what Muro Lucano looked like when the Cipolla family was living here. You can also see an amazing arial photograph which gives perspective I couldn't capture, but shows just how amazing this place is  

Inside the home of San Gerardo Majella

Chiara shares the story of San Gerardo Majella

Muro Lucano 1858: View of the Pianello, Belvedere San Nicola
 and Castle by Alphonse Beroud

The Pianello (right), Belvedere San Nicola (rocky outcrop center) and the Castle (Top). Note: Found on Reddit

As you walk through the streets of the Pianello you will observe how quiet and peaceful it is. Like many parts of Muro, houses aren't fully occupied year-round, but some will return for the summer.  The mountains can be cool by comparison and this is a nice area to retreat too in the heat of August. Sometimes I marveled at seeing small cars and motorcycles parked on the street....I can't figure out how they even got there!

Speaking of cars, Chiara Ponte arranged for us to meet with her father to catch a ride to our next destination....Belvedere San Nicola. Given how much we had walked and the rising temperatures....that was much appreciated. From our new vantage point we could overlook the Pianello and wander among ruins of homes destroyed by the 1980 earthquake. This area stands as a park and memorial. It is intriguing to see how creative people were to craft homes from a rock outcrop. We spotted some modern artifacts like floor tiles that reinforce that people lived here not long ago.

In the distance and below we could spot the Ponte del Pianello, a 1918 bridge that was once among the highest in Italy. Last time we drove across the bridge after climbing up from the natural trail known as Sentiero delle Ripe. Since our visit it earned a "Places of the Heart" distinction for locations in Italy not to be forgotten. Walking the trail is worth the effort, but at this time the trail was undergoing repairs.  

Touring Belvedere San Nicola

Belvedere San Nicola view of the Pianello

Peering up at the seminary, castle and cathedral from Belvedere San Nicola

The ancient Pianello district

The Pianello bridge below us

Chiesa San Andrea Apostolo  

We arrived at the Church of Saint Andrew the Apostle which stands in Piazza don Minzoni, the central piazza in Muro. The church dates to 1420!  That alone is amazing. As I captured in 2018, "the structure that incorporates the church was originally part of a monastery (associated with Saint Anthony and Franciscan monks) and there are vestiges of that today in the inner courtyard. The exterior of the church has changed over the centuries, even since the Cipolla's were there. This would have felt more rural with a gorge created by an active stream and trees occupying some of the space. Today you can hear the water that is channeled below the square. There is also a memorial to victims of the two world wars set among trees that still stand."

The altar at Chiesa San Andrea Apostolo

Monica and Meg at the beautiful
Chiesa San Andrea Apostolo 

Belvedere Torrione

Our tour of Muro with Chiara came to an end in the early afternoon and we said our goodbyes, shared a small gift and returned for a brief rest at Nonna Felicia B&B. It was nice that Chiara's father gave us a lift! Later, Meg and I journeyed on to the Torrione area which offers a panoramic view of Muro Lucano. This area is close to where the Cipolla's lived and a short distance from the castle. A statue of San Gerardo Majella towers above all visitors as he casts his blessing over the people. I sported by Ciao Delco! shirt...bringing a bit of home with me to Italy. 

The view of Torrione

San Gerardo overlooking Muro Lucano

Dinner under the stars at Argiturismo La Bonta

With the help of our Nonna Felicia B&B hosts we made dinner reservations at Argiturismo La Bonta. This restaurant came highly recommended from multiple locals. Argiturismo La Bonta is outside of the heart of Muro Lucano (back down the mountain!) in the valley. We found ourselves traveling down a narrow (but flat!) winding road and thinking, "How would two cars fit on this road at the same time?". It was worth the worry and when we arrived we found ourselves in a peaceful outdoor space with a pool. It probably isn't a coincidence that it reminded me of our recent dining experience at Agriturismo Vignola in Marsico Nuovo. 

The staff at La Bonta were very nice, but of course they did not speak a lot of English. Once again we relied on Google Translate to help us read the menu and pick our dishes. We enjoyed the local pasta, pizza and beer while we sat near the pool. The restaurant is "out of the way" from anyone's daily commute, so it was good to see the locals thought highly enough of the food to dine here. It is also possible to stay at Argiturismo La Bonta and that is definitely worth considering if you aren't looking to stay in the historical district of Muro Lucano. If you are a "foodie" this place is calling you! 

DAY 3: ARRIVEDERCI

Making our exit to Salerno and Rome

After a good night of rest, we departed early the next day for Salerno. The ~90 minute ride is scenic and without stress. It was sad to say goodbye but we had adventures ahead and hope to return in the future. By the end of the day we would be in Rome! We easily returned our car and hung out for lunch at Burger Bar Cargo. After a week of delicious pasta, seafood and pizza dishes, we were happy to grab some burgers and chicken sandwiches before catching a train to Rome. For those thinking of doing something similar, know that you can check your luggage at the store next to the train station for a small fee and walk about town. My only regret from the brief time we spent in Salerno was that we didn't get to revisit Bar Gelateria Nettuno and indulge in some Gelato on a Brioche bun...don't knock it until you try it! 

If you are thinking of visiting Muro Lucano to explore your roots (or just get off the beaten path!), I hope you take the leap and find this blog post helpful. Feel free to reach out to me. If making the trip isn't in the cards, you can get to know Muro Lucano better thanks to a 2025 documentary.  Next time I want to explore the countryside spotlighted in this film. After all, our family were peasants, cowboy and shepherds who worked across the landscape. Happy travels!

Goodbye Muro Lucano!