Started in 2008, this website charts the story of the Cipollo family that was launched in Philadelphia, PA with the arrival of Felix Cipollo from Muro Lucano, Italy in 1893. It takes a look back at his roots and the generation that followed. It is a living document. Please share comments or email dathfamily2@gmail.com.
I'm happy to add a new chapter to the story. In August 2018, a 125 years after Felice Cipolla (later known as Felix Cipollo) emigrated from Muro Lucano, Italy to the United States, I traveled to his homeland. With my wife Megan I spent two days in Muro Lucano exploring the stunning natural beauty of the landscape and both the visible and hidden history of this jewel in the mountains of Basilicata.
During this journey I connected with family roots by walking the streets of my ancestors, exploring the churches where they were baptized and married, and navigating the steep natural landscape that once protected the town. We were fortunate on this trip to have Chiara Ponte, a local guide, historian and author, bring the history of the Cipolla family and Muro Lucano to life for us.
I encourage others to visit Muro Lucano and experience the charm of the town and the Murese people. You won't be disappointed! The town and the people are genuine, warm and inspiring. The food and hospitality will make you want to stay longer than you imagined. The rich history of the town and region go back many centuries and the stories and artifacts of those times are fascinating. You might even get chills as you think about your personal connection the history of Muro Lucano. So, this story is intended to share family history insights from this experience, but also help inspire you to visit Muro Lucano. This blog post is essentially part family history and part travel guide. Quick tip...you should go to Muro Lucano!
A local artist created this tile crest of Muro Lucano
OUR JOURNEY TO MURO LUCANO
As part of a 10-day trip to Italy we carefully planned a course that included time in Sorrento, Capri, Amalfi, and finally Salerno before leading to Muro Lucano and later Rome. We set out by car for Muro Lucano from Salerno early one Monday morning for the 1 hour and 23 minute trek through Salerno's surrounding hills and ultimately into the Apennine mountains of Basilicata.
Equipped with Google Maps we piled our bags into the small and feisty Toyota Aygo we rented from Hertz online before we left home and got rolling. We navigated highways with panoramic views and cruised through tunnels leading us through a rugged mountain landscape. As we turned through sparsely populated winding roads there was a nervous energy and excitement when first glimpsed Muro Lucano in the distance.
Eventually we rolled through the narrow twisting streets at the edge of town, shifting gears more than a few times along the way. Admittedly there was a sigh of relief when we finally pulled in and parked...I was a bit out of practice with a stick shift car! Honestly, the drive wasn't the stressor I thought it might be, but we didn't venture back on the road during our stay. In the end we were rewarded by taking the road less traveled by tourists visiting Italy. The journey was thrilling and we were surrounded by beauty and history...both ancient and that of our family.
For those not looking to get behind the wheel the alternative would be to travel by train from Salerno to the town of Bella and then arrange travel by car.
Google Maps helped guide the way
The first sign point to Muro Lucano!
Muro Lucano comes into focus for us with the castle at the summit
We made it to Muro Lucano!
Our first Muro Lucano selfie!
HOTEL DELLE COLLINE: OUR HOME IN MURO LUCANO
A search for places to stay in Muro Lucano lead to one likely conclusion, the Hotel Delle Colline. With the help of Google Translate we booked our trip through the hotel website and upon arrival were warmly welcomed by the owner and staff.
Upon checking in we discovered we had a room with a view that can't be topped. Once in our room we swung open doors that opened to the outside world and heard a choir of bells chiming as captured on video (see below). We later learned that there was a wedding and that the bells were for the new bride and groom (though they felt choreographed for us!). Who would have suspected a Monday afternoon wedding? We would hear beautiful bells many times, but these stood out among the rest and we were fortunate to be there for this occasion. Later we saw the wedding party driving through town and honking their horns in celebration.
Our view allowed us to scan the horizon and peer across most of the town including the medieval castle, churches and the neighborhood that hosted the Cipolla family. It seemed fitting that American and Italian flags waved just below us as we marveled at the beauty and enjoyed the cool mountain breezes.
Over two days we enjoyed wonderful food and found countless photo opportunities from dawn to dusk whenever we peered out the windows and doors of our room. The sunlight played off the town and landscape. Our glass door caught delightful reflections which we also photographed. We took a lot of photos in attempts to capture the beauty and preserve the moments. The evenings offered additional inspiring views as the town and its monuments lit up. It was a pleasure to just sit in a chair and ponder what was in front of us and how fortunate we were to be there.
The restaurant at Hotel Delle Colline served great meals.
Our room was on the second floor delivering scenic views.
Room with a view at Hotel Delle Colline.
Reflections capture the scenic beauty.
The sunrise in Muro Lucano.
Relaxing in some retro furniture while taking in the view.
A medieval castle overlooks the town. The Cathedral of San Nicola rises next to it. To the left of the castle (and at least partially out of view) is the general area of the Cipolla's residences in the late 1800s. Some houses were destroyed in a 1980 earthquake and only rocky foundations remain. On the other side of the castle (and fully out of view) is the oldest part of town, Pianello, and a steep ravine that once protected it.
The sun rises on our second day from Hotel Delle Colline.
The castle and town of Muro Lucano light up at night.
Enjoying an excellent dinner Hotel Delle Colline.
You know you want to try this bruschetta. Make dinner plans!
Overlook near Hotel Delle Colline
Strolling near the hotel, Meg poses in front of the beautiful natural landscape we drove through to arrive in Muro Lucano
HOMECOMING FOR FELICE, ROSAMARIA AND MARIA VINCENZA
Over the course of our stay it seemed fitting that Felice Cipolla, his mother Maria Vincenza and his sister Rosamaria (and brother-in-law, Vincenzo Crusco!), got to share in the moment. So we brought them with us...with the help of an iPad. They were home again...virtually!
Felice Cipolla returns to Muro Lucano
Maria Vincenza Cipolla returns to Muro Lucano
Rosamaria Cipolla returns to Muro Lucano
THE FIRST CIPOLLA NEIGHBORHOOD: SAN BERNARDINO
Years of research have firmly established that anyone with family roots descending from Felice Cipolla (Felix Cipollo) can trace the beginning of their family to his father, Luigi Cipolla. He was an an abandoned child who overcame the trying circumstances of his birth on May 2, 1842 to eventually start a family of his own.
We may never know his parents since they sought anonymity by abandoning him. Regardless, as an obsessive family historian I've longed to know who raised him and where. Fortunately, in advance of our trip Chiara Ponte read the family history material I compiled and did some independent research. She knew the childhood home of Luigi was a question that lingered and so she dug deep for clues.
Three days prior to our arrival Chiara had a breakthrough. At the time of Luigi's birth there was an orphanage and hospital in Muro Lucano that aided the poor, sick and abandoned. It was financed by the confraternity of the Most Holy Sacrament, a lay association that partly funded its good works through cultivation and livestock. Any accommodations and services provided would have been extremely modest, but lifesaving. This is most likely how Luigi Cipolla survived abandonment.
Below is a picture of the immediate vicinity of the orphanage, and possibly some of the historical structure itself (white building). The facilities stood adjacent to the Church of San Bernardino, a small church also pictured below. Sadly the church, like other ancient buildings in Muro Lucano, was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1980. It does not function today.
The church and orphanage were in close proximity to a square that supplied neighbors with water to cook, bathe, clean clothes and quench their thirst. It would have served both people and animals. This neighborhood of Muro Lucano is known as San Bernardino and likely represents where Lugi Cipolla lived, gathered water (which still flows today!) and attended many church services as a youth.
One interesting tidbit Chiara shared was that there was another orphaned child born the same year as Luigi who went on to gain some notoriety. His name was Francesco Nebbioso. He was eventually adopted by a farmer and later went on to be a "brigand" that went by the name Ciaglione. His group became Robin Hood-like figures to the peasants but were enemies of the state. This followed the unification of Italy in 1861 which proved disastrous for the poor in the south with increased taxes, severe hunger and violence taking hold. It is interesting to ponder whether Luigi might have had a direct connection to Ciaglione and his band during the brigandage era given their common age and orphaned status. Thankfully, Luigi did not meet the same end as Ciaglione who was betrayed and killed in 1866. It is a chilling and gruesome tale...let me know if you want some details!
San Bernardino former area of 1842 orphanage and hospital. Likely neighborhood for Luigi Cipolla.
Potential 1842 location of orphanage and hospital that may have cared for Luigi Cipolla.
Adjacent to the orphanage was the Church of San Bernardino (1980 earthquake damaged)
San Bernardino community fountain and church.
Wandering the streets of Muro Lucano. No cars fitting here!
THE BAPTISM OF LUIGI CIPOLLA & THE CATHEDRAL OF SAN NICOLA
Prior to visiting Muro Lucano it was known that the abandoned Lugi Cipolla was baptized in his earliest days by a priest from the great Cathedral of San Nicola on May 3, 1842. This is the most important church in Muro Lucano and its presence adjacent to the medieval castle gives it tremendous prominence in the landscape. An earthquake in 1980 forever altered structure (the ceiling completely collapsed) and it did not reopen until 2017. Thankfully, many beautiful works of art and religious artifacts were saved and restored. In fact, new discoveries were made as they worked to repair the church, including an original church foundation centuries old and tomb of former bishops. The tomb comes with its own macabre, but interesting story...but I'll keep it to myself for now. You should visit so you can hear it yourself!
We were blessed to have a private tour of the San Nicola that helped connect us with some family history as well as the history of the cathedral to the community. Inside we found the baptismal fountain in use for centuries that would have seen holy water wash over the head of Luigi Cipolla at his baptism. There is also a statue of Saint Luigi Gonzaga, a popular saint in the region (more so in the 1800s than today) who is a likely namesake for Luigi Cipolla and generations to follow. Lastly, there is a direct connection in the cathedral to the lay association that likely cared for him as a child. The confraternity of the Most Holy Sacrament has a beautiful chapel within the cathedral's walls.
Cathedral of San Nicola where Luigi Cipolla was baptized.
Part of the castle stand behind us. It adjacent to the Cathedral (out of view on the left). Like the Cathedral, the castle was severely damaged in a 1980 earthquake. Parts of it a restored, but it is privately owned and not open to the public.
Baptismal fountain for Luigi Cipolla's era.
Statue of San Luigi Gonzaga, possible namesake for Luigi Cipolla
Cathedral view from the altar.
Chapel in Cathedral of San Nicola associated with confraternity of the Most Holy Sacrament.
A statue of San Gerardo stands in the cathedral. A few days after this photo was taken, the statue was carried about the town in an annual festival celebrating this son of Muro Lucano. The large cross was once used at service delivered by John Paul II in 1980 in another town following the earthquake that nearly totally destroyed this cathedral.
WALKING THE STREETS OF THE CIPOLLA FAMILY
It is clear from records that the Cipolla family were peasants who worked the land of more wealthy landowners. The landowners they worked for likely owned property in the town of Muro Lucano (people didn't live in farm houses) that the Cipolla's would have used/rented for their own needs. There are records that speak to 19 Strada Torrine and 13 Via Raia Superiore, and Strada Castello (Castle Street) as Cipolla residences. The addresses don't exactly translate to modern household addresses due to the passage of time and possibly due to to the 1980 earthquake which destroyed some houses along these streets.
So, what did we discover about the streets of the Cipolla family? The historic streets can be walked and today offer some of the most stunning views of the Muro Lucano landscape. They are up high near the summit of the town and close to the castle. (Note: If you stay at the Hotel Delle Colline, you can gaze directly across at the part of town that the Cipolla's called home). The houses in this area tend to be built into and from the rock of the mountain. The rooms and features of the Cipolla homes such as steps, walls, wardrobes, and even sleeping quarters (for them and their animals!) could have been shaped from the rock. You can see this clear today in some of the remains of houses that were not rebuilt. It is also clear that being close to the castle wasn't an indication of wealth and I suspect the Cipolla's were as unlikely to tour the castle as we were....they castle is a private residence not open to tourists.
Today, strolling through these streets is like a step back in time. Some are so narrow they aren't accessible by even the tiniest car. The streets contain steps, sometime spaced to make it easy for donkeys to climb...but you won't find donkeys today. Many houses contain markers referencing dates from their construction in the 1800s and even 1700s, meaning they stood when the first Cipolla's walked by them.
A view from Strada Castello a one-time Cipolla street.
1980 earthquake destroyed homes here on Castello Street, possibly including a Cipolla home
Chiseled steps on Castello show how a house once wrapped the mountain here.
We took this donkey-friendly path to Belvedere Torrine.
Following the Cipolla household trail on Belvedere Torrione. Behind us is the town's medieval castle. Along this path once stood houses, possibly a Cipolla residence according to records.
St. Gerardo looks over Muro Lucano from Belvedere Torrione.
Raia is a confirmed Cipolla street.
Walking along Raia, like the Cipolla family.
Charming streets will warm your spirit.
This doorway from 1789 is one of many such markers we know the Cipolla's would have seen in their day.
Capomuro neighborhood fountain and wash area that served the Cipolla family and their animals from all their known addresses.
THE CIPOLLA FAMILY PARISH: PARROCCHIA SAN ANDREA APOSTOLO
There are many churches in Muro Lucano, but the two most important are the Cathedral of San Nicola (Saint Nicholas) and the Church of San Andrea Apostolo (Saint Andrew the Apostle). Important ceremonies and sacraments like marriage were only conducted at these churches. We know from records that Felice Cipolla's parents and siblings were affiliated with San Andrea Apostolo.
San Andrea is an unconventional looking church from the outside. The structure that incorporates the church was originally part of a monastery (associated with Saint Anthony and Franciscan monks) and there are vestiges of that today in the inner courtyard. The exterior of the church has changed over the centuries, even since the Cipolla's were there. Today the church sits upon Piazza Don Minzoni, but in Luigi Cipolla's day, this would have felt more rural with a gorge created by an active stream and trees occupying some of the space. Today you can hear the water that is channeled below the square. There is also a memorial to victims of the two world wars set among trees that still stand.
In our era Piazza Don Minzoni is a popular square for public festivals. In fact, they were setting up a stage while we were there for a St. Gerado celebration. St. Gerardo is everywhere in Muro Lucano! It is worth noting that the St. Gerardo celebration is so popular that they fire a cannon or loud firework off each night for a period of days to mark the countdown. We found ourselves a bit shocked by the explosions echoing in the early evening. A potato festival (which appears to draw hundredss too) was also just a few weeks away and we've since seen pictures of this square packed with people for that event. On a typical day the square is used for friends and families to socialize, have a few drinks, and grab something to eat, including gelato (we couldn't resist getting some!).
Piazza Don Minzoni with the church of San Andrea in the background.
The church has a long history - 1420! Yes...before Columbus discovered America!
The bell tower of San Andrea
At the foot of the tower is the municipal office entrance that Luigi passed through to get married.
Entrance to San Andrea the Cipolla's would recognize.
Looking back from the altar at San Andrea.
The altar of San Andrea.
The courtyard reflects the monastic roots of the church. Sometimes this space is used for special events today.
San Andrea's bell tower at night.
The night time glow of the bell tower.
DIVING INTO THE ARCHIVES OF SAN ANDREA APOSTOLO
Over the centuries part of the original monastery complex that today encompasses San Andrea became the Muro Lucano municipal center. The municipal entrance was near the bell tower. It is here that Luigi Cipolla went when he wanted to marry Maria Vincenza Trotta. We have digital copies of the records he signed there. On this trip we wanted to see if there were any new insights to be gained from church records.
With the help of Chiara Ponte we were granted permission by the church to investigate their archives. The church only asked for a small donation. We spent about about an hour paging through church records and cross referenced them with municipal records. Fortunately Chiara was very familiar with the archives and her native Italian language abilities were priceless. Ironically, a few records were unavailable as they were out being processed for digitization. However, seeing the stacks of books that were there and being present in the building that possessed them for centuries was exciting.
The books contained beautiful handwriting. It is a wonder how the information was compiled and organized without the aid of a computer. Overall, the experience was like being in an episode from the TV series, "Who Do You Think You Are?". Chiara read out loud the short stories contained in the books and bridged 125+ years of family history. It is hard to explain, but it is a lot different to see the books and records in person than it is to see them online. The data isn't any different, but the story told regarding key events in the lives of the Cipolla's...baptisms, marriages and deaths...feels more personal when you are turning pages of books penned in the 1800s. The paper those stories are written on convey the story in a different way than pixels on a computer screen.
What might be most interesting isn't what we found in the books, but what we didn't find. Some of the municipal records, such as the marriage of Luigi and Maria Vincenza, didn't have a corresponding church record for the same date. We explored months of records, but came up empty for a church record for Luigi and Maria's wedding. It is unclear exactly what that means and we were all puzzled.
We did however find other records consistent with municipal records for the death of Luigi Cipolla, his teenage son Pasquale, and his baby daughter Lucia. We learned that Luigi, Pasquale and Lucia were in good standing with the church when they passed away. It was powerful to see the original documents and have Chiara translate them. It felt like we knew the people and could relate to the pain the family would have experienced in Muro Lucano and in Philadelphia (Pasquale passed away while Felice was in the US).
Record books in San Andrea: A gateway to the past.
Piecing together the family story through records.
MADONNA DEL SOCCORSO
Muro Lucano has so many historic churches and each has its own character. It is amazing how many churches were built and still serve the community (today about 5,000). Muro Lucano was a religious center for the region (seminarians and bishops were housed here), but still, the population was never large (about 8,000 max). Chiara highly recommended a visit to Madonna Del Soccorso (Saint Mary of the Help ) for its stunning interior paintings and suggested it might be the most beautiful church in Muro Lucano.
At the time the Cipolla family resided in Muro Lucano this was probably the most distant church from their home, but it would have been worth the walk. The 1700s wooden balcony stood out for us, but there was beauty from floor to ceiling. I wouldn't recommend taking a ladder up to the balcony given the age, but apparently that is still done. So many people have seen the wonderful churches of Rome, Venice and Florence. Coming here gives you exposure to something unique and beautiful yet under-appreciated. You won't find a tour book telling you about the paintings and statues, but Chiara knows the details (and she has a key to get you in!).
EXPLORING THE PATH OF THE RIPE AND THE PIANELLO NEIGHBORHOOD
One thing we marveled at in Muro Lucano was the strength and endurance the Cipolla family must have possessed in order to go about their daily work. The incline of the landscape is no joke! While we don't know exactly where Luigi Cipolla and his family labored, we can surmise that the commute to work as a shepherd and cowboy wasn't an easy one.
Given that the Cipolla's lived near the crest of Muro Lucano we can be confident they were very familiar with Senetiero Delle Ripe, a trail that descends from near the Cathedral of San Nicola, through the ancient Pianello neighorhood of Muro Lucano (the oldest part of the town). The trail connects Muro Lucano with the Village of Capodigiano on the other side of a great ravine, one that once provided natural protection from invaders. The ravine is home to the Rescio river. The name "Ripe" associated with the trail is a reference to the rocky limestone landscape.
It isn't hard to imagine Luigi Cipolla walking this trail to get to land more accommodating to a shepherd and his flock or to venture to Capodigiano. He would have crossed an ancient bridge built in about 1100 that still stands today (we crossed it!). The remnants of water mills (including ancient millstones) are still visible. Along the trail you'll find fig trees, once planted to nourish those who took the path and undoubtedly needed a few calories to help them ascend the trail on their way home from work. In fact, we saw a local man reaching into a tree to grab some food for himself.
Taking this walk exposed us to the natural beauty of Muro Lucano and allowed for some stunning views looking back up at Muro Lucano and a more modern bridge built in 1916-18. It also connected us with the highly popular San Gerardo since his home is found along the path as you walk through the Pianello neighborhood. We ran into Italian tourist making their own trek to his home.
Our visit included a walk along down this 9th century trail
Chiara always kept us informed about what we were seeing. She was a great tour guide. The Sentiero Delle Ripe begins!
Approaching the Pianello neighborhood along the trail. You can spot the Capodigiano village and an early 1900s bridge that spans a great ravine.
Throughout Muro Lucano there are murals like this one in Pianello that tell the story San Gerardo. This one depicts him running away from home...ironically on his way to being a saint.
People from across the region and beyond journey to take a tour of San Gerardo's home. He is a wildly popular saint.
San Gerardo's home might offer a clue about the inside of the Cipolla home. The plates on the wall include marks that are specific to Muro Lucano.
A small church dedicated to St. Mary of the Snow (Madonna Della Neve) is found in Pianello.
A narrow walkway in the Pianello neighborhood gives a glimpse of the Ripe. No cars sneaking through here!
Standing on a bridge from 1100s. Above is Pianello. We later took a "taxi" across the early 1900s bridge above and back to town.
Meg captured this panoramic view.
Remains of water mills along the trail recall the 1800s era when they operated to support the community.
A LUXURY UNKNOWN TO THE CIPOLLA FAMILY: APE TAXI
Our two days in Muro Lucano involved a lot of walking! Meg's Fitbit calculated 95 flights of steps! So, you can imagine that we were thrilled to learn we didn't need to walk all the way back to Muro Lucano at the end of our hike on Senetiero Delle Ripe. We had a fun "taxi" arranged to pick us up (thanks to Chiara!) near Capodigiano and wisk us over the "modern" bridge, then along the winding roads that wrap Muro Lucano and finally through the town. There were a lot of friendly beeps and waves along the way. We felt like celebrities!
Together with our guide Chiara, we enjoyed a ride through Muro Lucano. It was pure fun.
Our last stop on our tour gave us new views of Pianello and the landscape
Meg and Chiara at the end our adventure.
SAYING GOODBYE TO MURO LUCANO...FOR NOW
We had two wonderful days in Muro Lucano. We saw a lot but there is more to see and do in the town including museums and various festivals. We'd like to come back and visit other towns in the region too as each offers something unique. Castelmezzano and Matera are high on the list. This is the most overlooked region to tour in Italy. Foreigners and Italians don't give it the credit it deserves...though Matera is the designated "European Cultural Capital" for 2019...so maybe things are changing (visit before it is mobbed!). Some tour books dismiss Basilicata entirely. What a mistake! A visit to this region gives you an authentic Italian experience and exposes you to centuries of history and natural beauty. Muro Lucano alone is testimony to that.
Of course Muro Lucano will always be special to us given the family connection. Everyone descending from Felice Cipolla can be proud of their roots to such a fantastic place. If you get a chance to visit...we'd strongly recommend asking Chiara Ponte to guide you. She can get keys to everything and knows so much about the town and the people. She has written books about Muro Lucano and is also behind the 10 Places to Visit in Muro Lucano article that we found very helpful (Google can translate it for you!).
Before we return I'll continue to do more digging into family roots and build more excuses to visit. If I can just figure out exactly where in Basilicata Felice's wife--Domenica "Minnie" Lagrosa--came from, my excuse will be made easy! If you have a clue....send me an email at dathfamily2@gmail.com!
Don't be sad it is over...be happy that it happened! Ciao!
